Lawn and Garden Center
Creative Container Garden Along the
roadside sat a discarded iron bed frame,
sunken halfway into the ground and
brimming over with colorful impatiens,
brown-eyed Susans, lupines and daisies. A
sign on the frame read simply, "flower bed."
An extreme example of container gardening,
perhaps, but it illustrates the wide range of
interesting and creative possibilities that
arise when you decide to grow plants in
containers. Simply put, when it comes to
container gardening, anything goes. Why
Garden in Containers? From a practical
standpoint, container gardening allows you
to add gardening space where there was
none before. It's the ideal solution for
apartment dwellers or anyone eager for more
room to grow. For example, you can soften
the edges of a roof with hanging baskets,
brighten a wall with a colorful windowbox, or
even grow vegetables and herbs on a narrow
balcony. From an artistic point of view,
container gardening brings out creativity,
giving you the opportunity to think more
about design, space, and texture. Whether or
not your yard has plenty of space, you should
try your hand at container gardening this sp
ring--just for the fun of it. Choosing the Right
Container Once you make the decision to
garden with containers, the next decision is
what kind to use. Almost anything with sides
and a bottom can become a container for
plants. Tubs, wine barrels, baskets, concrete
and plastic containers, troughs, terra cotta
pots, and window boxes are some commonly
used containers. But more exotic elements,
like neglected rowboats, wheelbarrows,
watering cans, old birdbaths, even boots and
automobile tires can be used as containers,
too. When choosing your containers,
consider the following: * Should the
container be visible? If so, how visible? *
How large should it be? * How durable
should it be? * Will you need to move the
container? * Will you be able to water and
care for the plants? Answering these
questions will help you choose the right
container for any situation. Preparing the
Container Proper drainage and good soil are
essential to the health of our container
plants. Choose containers with drainage
holes (or drill the holes yourself), and layer
some broken crockery or stones on the
bottom to promote good drainage. Container
gardening requires extremely rich soil, as
nutrients will be depleted more quickly than
in an ordinary garden. Most flowers and
vegetables will do fine in a commercial
potting soil or a rich loam composed of peat
moss and well-rotted garden compost. What
to Plant Choosing the plants for your
container garden is both a challenge and an
adventure. To begin, think about the light
conditions where you plan to place your
containers, and choose your plants
accordingly. In addition, look for plants with
a long flowering period so your containers
will provide season-long blooms. You can
create interest by intermingling plants of
various sizes, shapes, and colors. Allow some
trailing plants, such as ivy geranium and
asparagus fern, to tumble over the edges of
the containers. Include some twining plants,
such as clematis, to climb upwards, and
some spreading plants, like alyssum, to cover
the surface of the pot. Don't forget that many
varieties of vegetables, such as pot
tomatoes, peppers, and miniature eggplant,
have been bred specially for containers.
Herbs, such as basil and mint, are also
well-suited for container gardening. Caring
for Container Gardens Because of their
limited growing space, container gardens
have a few special requirements. Most
importantly, they need plenty of water.
Containers tend to dry out quickly, so you
may need to water your plants more than
once a week. As a general rule, if the top
inch of the soil feels dry, it's time to water.
To give your container plants an adequate
supply of nutrients, it's important to fertilize
them regularly. Use a commercial fertilizer
and always follow the manufacturer's
directions. Deadheading (removing blossoms
as soon as they die) will help extend the life
of container-bound flowers. Certain plants,
such as salvia and petunia, respond
particularly well to deadheading and will
actually produce more and larger flowers as
the old ones are removed. Let Your Creative
Juices Flow! Now, before spring arrives, is the
perfect time to start planning your container
garden. Look around the house--you never
know what old cast-offs could be recycled as
interesting containers. Whether you opt for a
windowbox, pots, or an old rowboat filled
with flowers, container gardening will present
a whole new world of possibilities.

Shrubs Follow the general planting
directions in Easy Steps to Planting Nursery
Stock. Give shrubs room to grow by setting
them rather far apart unless you want to form
a dense, upright hedge. It's better to allow
too much room than too little since cramped
quarters will cause shrubs to lose their
natural shape. Set shrubs far enough from
the house so that they won't touch the walls
when mature. This avoids a cluttered look in
the landscape and more importantly,
protects the health of the plants. It permits
air to circulate freely, lessening the chance
of disease. Never plant directly under the
drip line of a roof where shrubs could be
damaged by falling icicles or snow. Avoid
planting under overhangs where the plants
won't get sufficient moisture. Don't place a
shrub in an exposed site if it's a variety that
needs shelter from winter winds. Most shrubs
need very little pruning--just enough to
maintain the basic shape of the bush and to
keep dead wood trimmed out. Shrubs should
not be pruned straight across the top
because this spoils their natural habit of
growth. Lightly prune early blooming shrubs
immediately after they finish flowering.
Midseason and late bloomers can be pruned
in late fall after flowering or in early spring.
HYDRANGEA--These plants thrive in rich,
moist soil and flower freely in sun or shade.
Flower color is determined by soil acidity.
Where soils are acid, blooms are blue.
Where soils are alkaline, blooms are pink. For
pink flowers, sprinkle 1/2 to 1 cup lime
around the plants at planting time. For blue
flowers, add 1/2 to 1 cup aluminum
sulphate. Prune stems which have just borne
flowers and leave those that won't flower
until next year. Older, darker canes can be
removed almost at the ground. Go easy on
young, vigorous green shoots; they shouldn't
be drastically pruned.


LILAC--Lilacs prefer cool temperatures and
early planting--as soon as the soil can be
worked--in a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Never
prune lilacs severely--just trim off the old
blooms immediately after flowering. It's easy
to see where you should make the cut; you'[ll
notice next year's buds developing just
below this season's flower clusters. As soon as
the blooms are spent remove them to make
way for next year's crop of blossoms.

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